Reviewing one of Alessandro Michele’s collections on mannequins at a showroom appointment may seem somewhat disappointing – the experience lacks not only the prismatic whimsy of his shows, but also his acrobatic talent as a raconteur . However, there is a silver lining: You get a chance to closely examine (and marvel at) the beauty behind each of the 62 women and 28 men. Their intricate craftsmanship truly makes a statement in itself.
As always with Michele, each look has its own voice, revealed through cascades of appliqués, embroidery, lacementery, bows, ruches and lace trimmings, based on carefully constructed and millefeuille-style confections , all of which exudes that obvious joy. Valentino Archives. It is striking how his work at Gucci subtly hinted at Garavani’s influence, although he lacked the resources to achieve the level of refinement possible within a couture house. Now he is clearly enjoying the opportunity. Even though it was ready-to-wear, the execution was extraordinary – apparently every gorgeous embroidery was handmade by artisans using embroidery hoops.
The co-ed collection displayed some recurring themes. The daywear took inspiration from the 1960s, evident in the trapeze silhouette of the short shift dress; Neat skirt suit with elongated shirt-jacket in black and white optical print of names opti-coolA type of hallucinogenic houndstooth; and prim silk shirtdresses with a cherry motif dubbed cherry-ficA leopard-print trench coat created a channel beau monde A glimpse of Valentino’s jet set chic, yet it was offset by Michelle’s quintessential quirkiness, layered over an ensemble printed with tiny pugs, a motif said to be petit charles As a tribute to the house’s founder’s beloved canine companions.
In the 1970s, Valentino’s influence on boho was more scandalous than scandalous. Michelle revisited her sense of romance and infused it with some of her own tendencies. Presented an extraordinary range of paisley-printed dresses travel fantasy Motifs, together making the case for the masterclass: short, loose kaftans with bibs were intricately embroidered with crystals, and long ones with tiny glass beads and mirrors stitched to the belt with butterflies or bows. The ruffles were layered over the skirt at various levels. Similarly, chiffon wrap skirts were paired with boxy matélaise jackets trimmed in passementerie. For evening, the tulle gowns were ethereal and exquisite, embroidered with cloud-like sparkle and beauty – if Apple Martin, who recently caused a sensation in a custom Valentino gown at Le Bal des Debutants in Paris , got a chance to turn back the clock and after his re-debut, he will have no shortage of attractive options.
L’Homme Valentino offered an equally luxurious wardrobe, rooted in sartorial tailoring with imaginative incarnations in decorative funk. The tapestry-jacquard cape decorated with tassels, the romantic 19th-century hussar officer jacket with finely embroidered cuffs reminiscent of the Tolstoy novel, and the red velvet four-pocket field jacket with ruched collar are paired with denim Bermuda shorts or straight, classic trousers. Was styled with. Browse close-ups in the accessories feed to clearly understand the collection’s wealth of embellishments. They highlight how Michele’s time at Valentino is fueling her love of luxurious embellishments – no matter where she goes, she stays true to her style. Isn’t this after all the essence of true authorship?
