Given the current state of the political climate, one could say that this is a strange time to lean towards red, white and blue. But American heritage and craft are what designer Spencer Phipps has built his brand on since its founding in 2018. He’s constantly looking for new ways to re-invent American staples like jeans and workwear jackets. Phipps wanted to continue that story this season — and in a way that didn’t ignore the complexities of dressing for life in America at this time. Phipps said, “As I was putting the looks together, I realized it had to be a story.” “We started out with a very playful, nostalgic and childish way of dressing—and then moved into something more dark, strange, and maybe even a little criminal.”
His take on the modern American man – because character dressing is what Phipps does best – made for a wardrobe full of tension and parallels. There were obvious attempts to deconstruct classic American wardrobe pieces, almost as a way to challenge the definition of what it means to be American today. (The early look, for one, featured Phipps draped in an 1859 American flag; it had 33 stars on it, compared to the standard 50.) “The American identity is under such scrutiny right now,” said Phipps, who wanted to embed his new clothes with a sense of optimism. “The American dream is about the human desire to pursue a better life and live one’s personal freedom and truth.”
The result was Americana but with a twist. His cozy flannel shirt featured deconstructed details like an upcycled yoke and studded piping. He also created Western-style chaps but covered them with dramatic Mongolian yak fur. The appearance was very masculine, but the fine details were less so. The more wearable items will certainly be best-sellers: Phipps designed cotton rugby shirts with the stars and stripes and workwear pants with large cargo pockets. His cowboy-cut jeans and so-called chap jeans were cool, subtle nods to Western style. As always, they also had some vintage tees in the mix, including a style that read “Something special from Wisconsin!” This reflects his passion for frugality. “Ever since I had money to buy clothes, I have been buying second-hand clothes,” he said.
The outer garments were particularly strong. There were luxurious suede and knit zip-ups and an old red knit sweater shaped like a hunting-jacket silhouette. They even branded a vintage mustard shearling jacket with their logo. The most interesting development: a tailoring enterprise, with a small assortment of suit blazers. A charcoal blazer with a vintage blanket yoke had a real 1970s feel. “This is a new direction for us,” Phipps said. “Pre-COVID, we used to make really nice suits in Italy. Now I like suits with a story. We have a little bit of the clumsy dad feeling.” It seemed like the kind of priceless thing you could find in a dusty secondhand shop in L.A. or Santa Fe, and that was exactly the case.
