Which gear picture do you need to take a picture with Milky Way? The good news is that you do not need the most expensive, hardcore gear to get amazing Milky Way Photos.
This is an early guide how to take a picture of Milky Way. Therefore, I am not going to list the Star Trackers. While they are luxurious, they are not necessary to create beautiful milky images or astro-glandscapes. In addition, I am writing keeping in mind the single-exposure Milky Way photos, although you can definitely apply many of my suggestions for tracked or stacked photos.
Lenses for Milky Way Images
In my opinion, lens is the most important piece of equipment to take pictures of Milky Way. Why? Especially for single exposure, you want a lens with a large aperture. It gives all the unconscious starlight you can barely see. In addition, in my opinion, if we are considering the appropriate modern equipment made in the last ten years, a great lens makes a greater difference in the quality of the image than a great camera.
Creatively, we typically want to achieve the surrounding landscape along with a lot of Milky Ways with a lot of Ganga core. For me, the most attractive Milky are the pictures that marry the earth and the sky. Sure, a picture of Milky Way is good. But is it not a holistic reference that drops our jaw into amazement? When we take a picture of Milky Way, we should still keep in mind the strong composition.
Therefore, an ultra-wide angle lens or a wide angle lens is probably most useful. Then, you want it to be a wide aperture, as much as possible to go into as a slow starlight.
Here is a small list of suggestions (some of these are not mirrorless mounts and are only examples, so be sure to select the right mount for your camera):
I am using one Irix 15 mm F/2.4 lens For Milky Way Photos since 2017. I was one of the first photographers to start using it in the United States. I bought it so quickly that IRIX did not distribute this country. I had to buy it through eBay. I am recommending this because it has great optics, it is made like a tank, it has a large, bulbous front element like many ultra-wide angle lenses, and most, because it has a custody for “True Infinity”. Just turn this camera into infinity, and it closes into the place. All your stars are super sharp, just and easily. I said yes!
I use one Pentax 15-30 mm F/2.8 lens For me Pentax K-1I use IRIX 15 mm f/2.4 lenses or Rokinon 12mm F/2.8 Fisheye Lens When my Nikon draws a picture of D750 (off).
This is true, I mentioned a fish. These are very funny, giving you a quick dose of creativity and strangeness.
Camera for Milky Way Images
Almost any modern modern DSLR or Mirrorless camera with manual control is able to photograph Milky Way surprisingly well. In other words, you do not need the latest and biggest expensive cameras. An old camera such as what I use above is more than competent.
DSLR or Mirrorless cameras, which are said, are capable of performing ten years old or newly excellent high-iSo. I have seen outstanding pictures from many different types of cameras, including crop-sensor or full frame.
I buy used cameras because they spend too much. This is definitely not preventing me from making high quality photos. I will not hang on the camera either, although obviously, if you have a means and can buy a beautiful new camera, go for it. Truly, just about every major camera manufacturer Milky Way makes very capable cameras for a picture.
Some tips for new mirrorless cameras include:
As mentioned, I use old DSLR. This is not because I am a ludite. They work well, so I can keep using them too! I use one Pentax K-1 And a Nikon D750 (off).
Tipi for Milky Way Images
Obviously, you want your camera to be there even when you have the shutter open for 15, 20, or 30 seconds, normal exposure time for milky way photography. I use two carbon fiber tripets, A Feesol CT-3342 And one big Feisol CT-3372Which I have done since 2013. These prices have increased slightly, but are still a great purchase.
While I prefer carbon fiber, it is not necessary as long as you are going to travel much hiking. Nothing is wrong with an aluminum tripod. Heavy weight can often work on your side to create stability, especially in areas of air.
If you want stability and feel that you are going to use the appropriate amount of your tripod, then I would urge you that you do not buy a cheap, flared trippai.
This is actually an important piece of gear and can keep your camera safe and stable. After all, I am not sure that if it makes sense to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in a camera and lens, only to lay it on top of a cheap, gungy trippai.
But also, to give an example, since I bought my tripod in 2013, I have many camera bodies. However, I still have the same tripod (and lens). Hopefully it gives you some perspectives how important the camera is compared to bodies and lenses.
At the high end, the gitzo and the really correct accessories make the outstanding tripets. They are durable, designed beautifully, and are well. They are usually more expensive than feisol. I found that Feisol gave me an ideal balance of ease of use, quality, durability and price ease, so I bought them instead. I have used him extensively since 2013, so I think I chose well.
If you cannot afford the above tripod, see Manfroo, Benrow, or Leopoto. They make cheap tripod models that still look quite stable.
Regardless, make sure that you use a tripod like a supporter. Double-check that your legs are closed before moving forward. Then jam it into the ground. Doing so helps with stability. And another way to determine is that your legs are firmly closed.
Tipi ball head for milky they images
Is the quality ball head more important than the tipi legs? Perhaps In some cases, I think you can give a strong argument for it. I adjust the head of the ball more as I tip. And it is responsible for keeping my camera in the tripod.
I have two suggestions for high quality ball heads. Neither one of them is usually considered inexpensive. Other tripods are ball heads that are quite good, and of course, I have a tendency to “overdo” of tripets and ball heads. Regardless, the general rule of the thumb between many night photographers is to get a ball head and tripod legs that are for at least three times the weight that they have been rateing.
- Acratech GP-S Ball Head (Lightweight, load capacity is 25 pounds / 11.3 kg, ball does not get dirt or grit)
- Really right BH-55 ,
Great accessories to improve your milky photography experience
Removal shutter release
A remote shutter release the camera sets the camera on fire, without which you actually touch your shutter release button. This is very good to reduce vibration. If you want to keep everything cheap and simple, this is a great option.
intervalometer
A intervalometer does more than a simple, cheap remote shutter release. This opens your camera in a very wide world of possibilities. When your camera fires, how many times, for what period, and how often the gap (interval) you want to be between the photos, you have accurate control over it. It can be used for star trails, time-laps and more. A very sophisticated intervalometer can also do more for auto ramping and compensation of stars.
With an interval, you can photo “stack” to reduce the noise and bring the stars a little more. You can make star trails. “Okay, if you take many, many pictures … so otherwise, it’s going very short time to time! Quiet, huh?
If a camera does not have an easy -to -use internal interval, I firmly prefer a wired intervalometer. Why? I teach many night photography workshops. I have found that many participants have trouble with wireless intervals. They look inconsistent. Participants often feel that they are not sure whether their cameras have started their sequence.
Interval interval An excellent, inexpensive choice because it uses a separate viosable cable. If your cable is broken, you can swap it quickly. You can also buy various cables for various camera brands – especially useful if you own more than one brands.
It’s not like that. It uses separate viosable cables. If your cable breaks, you can quickly swap it to another. And this also means that you can buy separate cables for your brand camera. This is particularly useful if you own more than one brand camera. It is more flexible and less expensive!
Headlamp
Common advice that people often receive is that you should receive a headlamp with red light so that you do not exclude your night vision. And this advice is not wrong.
However, you should know that if you are in the area with other photographers, the red light can be much easier than white light in pictures of other people. Or too at least, it can add an ugly red glow that is more likely to ruin a picture than the glow of white light.
If you choose a headlamp with a red light, just find out when using it.
Coast HX4 Clip-on Light A headlamp is a good choice, as you can clip it with your clothes, hats or backpacks. You can rotate the beam to direct it, where you also want to see, hopefully the beam is kept out of other people’s cameras and eyes. And yes, it has both white and red lights.
My view to Milky Way’s picture
Camera gear is important. We want good equipment to work.
But the picture of Milky Way is less about gear, and more about surprise and curiosity. We are lucky to be in a dark, calm place, looking at the night sky and photographing. There is a special relationship that comes from seeing the light that has been traveling in part of the universe for 100,000 years, right now with us.
take your time. Use. relax. You are doing night photography!
You will not nail your creations or photos immediately. None of us does, even if we know what we are doing. It takes time, patience and creativity. But you are under the stars. Connect and enjoy the moment, knowing if you have a minor or top-shelf gear, you will be able to take pictures of luxurious Milky Way-and more importantly, enjoy the night sky with wires.
