Editor’s Note: This year was a big one for Marc Jacobs, who celebrated his 40th anniversary in fashion and became American’s first guest editor. Trend. We’re closing out 2024 by taking an archival look at the designer’s career. This Fall 1994 collection, presented in a loft in Soho in April 1994, has been digitized as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document the history of the fashion show.
This was Marc Jacobs’ comeback show. Shortly after presenting his infamy grunge collection For Perry Ellis in 1992, the brand decided to discontinue womenswear, and the designer allowed himself to take a break. During that time, he told Elsa Klensch, “I had time to think about what it is that I really like.” Hearts, which appeared throughout the collection, seemed to be an object of her affection, as were diamond brooches in the shapes of letters and numbers. The latter was cheekily used to write a telephone number on the cigarette that Amber Valletta smoked. Jacobs added a crazy mix, pairing a leopard skirt with an electric blue sweater and a taxi yellow jacket. Kate Moss’s LBD was accessorized with cute earmuffs. There was plenty of latex, but also customized Fair Isles, as well as diamond spaghetti straps on a Valentine red knit dress, a laminated A-line mini, and a skating dress warm enough to melt ice. Suffice it to say, Jacobs was playing with women and vampires and notions of good and bad taste. In circulation He said his process was “all about crazy combinations.” Anything is in fashion these days.”
The designer certainly returned with his sense of fun, and at a time when circulation Screaming about “putting the fun back into fashion”. The magazine published a four-page editorial, “Colorful Characters”, on the collection, and Bloomingdale’s Cal Ruttenstein declared It is “a completely new way of dressing, perfect for the 90s, and a wonderful way to bring back the mark.”
