Zen Lee is settling in Paris after trade for Big Apple for the City of Light earlier this year. This was his second Menswear Collection, which tried to category for size in the previous season. so far so good.
It was once again Lee’s technical curiosity that directed his lineup, herself aired by research that the designer did within the pocket of Arctiple Mainewear, explained in a preview. Namely, Lee saw officewear, swimwear, sports looks, and other sortorial spaces, which are revived by practicality rather than sports or aesthetics, as often as Menswear is.
Nevertheless, Lee has a habit to reduce the feeling of whisper in these simple and familiar styles. He said that his research was not ERA-specific, although he was evident through most of his production in the 70s, the 80s and early 90s. He said some of these sportswear and some of the rock ‘N’ roll references, “There is some aggression that feels quite (popular) for the world.” What is that, really, there is a feeling Macho; An incredible manhood that Lee said that he was eager to design.
“I am more interested in the positive side of men,” he continued, “soft, minor side.” This idea was most clear, and was most effectively translated, in a series of shirting and suiting cuts from sheer nylon in sweet pastel colors. Lee also layered the tank tops and T-shirts, expanding on some of its ideas of the previous season, in primary colors, when seen together on the same rack, transmits a similar comfortable feeling with naive and color story, even an old school fiscal value toy or leg set.
A recurring idea here, Lee said, “Shortes were disappeared”. These were subtle, as they have been in most collections this season. He hid them under blazers and nylon windbreakers. Its effect was somewhat retro – and was sexy in the same way, which have been short, and very revealing shorts from the 80s, but it was felt that the way the sexuality was soft and more subtle, it felt modern. This is what gives Lee an edge – his ability as a designer is not indifferent or highly referenced. Their views seem new.
