Welcome to Khoki’s house. The Tokyo-based collective of unnamed designers always puts a huge cloth door at the entrance of its showroom installations, but this year prepared an entire fabric house in the center of the room. It was the representative of the values of the brand: crafts, familiarity, eccentric, and – most importantly all -Teamwork. The group doubled its employees from three to six people in the last one year, received some new ideas (Khoki collective is a democracy, where every suggestion gets similar ideas).
A pair of most interesting ideas came from a new member: a set of metal cutlery-wrapped in a knife, fork and spoon-spoon bags, and a small sewing kit was sealed in leather card cases. A possible nightmare on the security of the airport, but is good to see. “I think such an object can only be made by working as a team, as it will not come from my own brain,” said Coki Abe, the figure of the collective. “I think this is a good way to do things, I want to continue moving in this way.”
While the previous season was more vested in a solid story, this collection took an independent approach, explained to Abe. “This is a weather that incorporates the updates of previous products and new concepts,” he said. Shibori, a historic Japanese tie-dyeing technology, was central for collection, creating colored spherical patterns, which were printed in sewn trousers, faded T-shirts and smooth leather jackets, so that they were similar to the mandals. The Bleu de Travail jacket was re-designed in a soft button-up sweater; Overseized tailoring, military jackets and cargo pants were artically faded or inflated together; While delicate white lace and Brodiri Anglice patched the torn knees of blue denim jeans.
Designers were also searching for how to bring vintage references and casual styles in a high-fashion, luxury context. “Whether it is clothes wearing clothes, or clothes that currently look right, we are looking for combinations and processing methods that can be worn in a slightly more formal settings,” Abe said. “One of our missions is to make clothes fun by using our pattern making skills and mixing new things together.”
Actually, Khoki’s feeling of fun is present at any time. The team’s galimophies at risks at risk on a class project with several kids cooks several times, but Abe is always able to guide its crew at a place that feels harmonious and comfortable. After all, not home, but a house.
