Since relaunching his eponymous line in 2021, Charles Harbison has stepped up his talent dramatically. Her signature gowns are designed in the brightest blues and most shocking pinks, marked by exaggerated proportions, floral embellishments and the addition of billowy capes because… why not?
“A lot of my clients want the absurd,” Harbison said during a studio tour in New York. “They say, ‘I want a longer train! I want bigger sleeves!’ For spring 2025, the L.A.-based designer introduced short dresses with voluminous satin rosettes and a voluminous bolero jacket that could also be worn as a top; form-fitting, ball-appropriate gowns. Harbison created some of these pieces in white – ideal for the over-the-top bride. However, the offering extends beyond fantasy dressing, with most of the Harbison’s version of pragmatism.
“I lived in this Botticelli, Venetian, kind of grand place,” he said. She also said that she took inspiration from the work of illustrator Danielle McKinney. The combination of the two – an older version of apparent perfection and a modern version of what Harbison describes as McKinney’s “intoxicating, intellectual perfection” – resulted in long pleated skirts, two-tone shirt dresses and attractive, oversized pajamas. Set, all included. Washed silk and neutral colors. “I know I love bold color, and I love primaries,” says Harbison, “but when I was looking for inspiration—and I really use my inspo boards, because they push me—Botticelli. The world needs you. See the beauty in a light, silent, hazy dream world. A North Carolina native who often designs with her mother and aunts in mind, her references were evident in the black and gold halterneck maxi dress that floated beneath her sweeping overcoat. “Very, very black excellence,” he said of the look.
While spring 2025, eveningwear continues to shine in the Harbison universe, allowing women to “move with the same kind of audacity that they would in their daytime hours,” the designer said; ” The same kind of nonsense, optimism and glamor. There’s no reason this can’t be part of your day.”
