It’s been a banner year for Genny, which presented its spring 2025 collection in Paris. This was not a simple case of “jumping the pond”; Reaching a wider audience led to introspection about what the brand is and what it stands for. Dete Refstrup was still pondering the questions in which Ghani-ism has been revisited and revised when designing this Pre-Fall collection. This season, for example, the label’s popular nipped waist jacket has a square neckline and is cut from waxed denim, and a trench is cut at jacket length and has a rolled-up sleeve. “It really felt like we got to a good place after Paris, where we could really feel like, ‘Okay, this is who we are,’ and really not be afraid to get back to some of the core values; Owning them and working with them,” the designer said over a call. “The Ganni girl has grown up – and I think that’s very natural because (she) is also an extension of me.”
The Gainey girl may be mature, but on the evidence of the lookbook, (photographed in Copenhagen) SMK Museum) His vivacity is always young. That doesn’t mean the collection lacks sophistication—a pair of roomy Fil Coupé jacquard pants (made from recycled wool and organic cotton) paired with a slouchy sweater looks elevated and comfortable. The same is true for organic cotton “summer tweed” and denim pieces. The collection will hit stores once the weather warms up; More easy-going looks include a gingham polo and a midi-length yoked denim skirt, one with an eyelet detail. There’s also a semi-transparent striped knit set, perfect for travel, and a baroque foulard-print pajama set in yellow and black that’s reminiscent of Miami in the ’80s and ’90s. Ganni’s new skate-style sneakers are also available in the Sunny colorway (and several other colors). Made using the brand’s Fabrics of the Future arm, they feature butterfly embroidery and shoe charms.
If there’s a slight grab-and-go feeling to this offering—it’s a little hard to connect the dots between a sweet pinafore dress, a chunky knit, and a sexy bubble skirt—there’s also confidence and strength in refreshing the brand’s hit. Plus, it’s a different way of looking at sustainability. Change for change’s sake is demoed; Good design has a long life.
