Prior to last year, Bibhu Mohapatra typically became zero on a muse for the season, and he inspired his collection – not their personal style or a vocal of aesthetics, but their interpretation of the essence of the subject. But for the last two sessions, after returning to India to perform fun rites for his parents and brother, Mohapatra’s prasad focuses on sorrow and disadvantage.
Now, the designer is combining a music and the concept of Indian heritage to pursue a new way. After bringing pieces to India from his final collection, Mohapatra decided to shoot a campaign at various sites in Mumbai – India’s gateway and the queen’s necklace between them. He stopped feeling liberated by Twentythosths that created his crew. He said, “I was blown away from what we created.” “They are putting in 200%.” Around the same time, they were heartbroken by the June 2025 verdict in the Andhra Pradesh High Court, which legally declared women to Trans women. He said, “To wider the definition of women forced me to see my culture with a different lens and how it is reflected in today’s world,” he said.
Thus, Mohapatra decided that he wanted to appeal his Spring 2026 collection for a new generation, while still respecting the 20th century Indian women honor trailblazing. “I am originally chanting the souls of those women and constructing a bridge in the 21st century,” he said.
The collection looked smaller than previous sessions. The pastel pink satin crepe cargo pants were a special attraction below a more traditional red kurta, as the cargo jeans was paired with a white, rhinestone crop top. But the array of the Opent Evening gown was unlikely to appeal for a young demographic.
This season, it was nice to see the glory of the Mohapatra hugging vibrant colors. Bold chartress was reminiscent of last year’s Brat Summer, while yellow pink and red combinations felt fickle. “I wanted this collection to be about Asha, optimism and celebration of the people of India,” he said. “I wanted to make it happy.”
