In this, the second in a series of articles about autofocus, we will see different focusing mode and their practical applications.
In the first of these articles, We saw a variety of autofocus and how they work. If you did not read that, I recommend doing this firstAs mentioned in the first article, please note that reaching some features may be separated by the camera, so your manual handi is recommended. To further confuse things, manufacturers do not stick to a standard naming, and it is impossible to give every name using every manufacturer. Therefore, if I use a word, it does not appear on your camera, you may have to search an online to find out what your brand uses.
Autofocus mode
Most cameras have two different modes to focus: single and continuous autofocus. (Cosherally, Canon calls in a shot and AI Saro).
If you hatch the shutter button of the camera with single autofocus (abbreviated to AF-S, S-AF, or a shot on the canon), the camera will lock the lens at a distance of the subject. If you or the subject goes, it will be out of the focus. This method is great for stable subjects such as landscape or still life, but not good for flying birds or people walking in the past.
As its name suggests, the constant autofocus (AF-C, C-AF, or AI Saro) will continue to refocus with half pressing with the shutter button if the subject moves. It is great for capturing moving subjects, such as wildlife, children are playing, or sports, but still not so good for people.
On some cameras, there is also automatic AF Mode (AF-A / AI focus AF). This is where the camera automatically switchs between AF-S and AF-C based on subject movement. Although it can be useful for normal shooting, it is less reliable than choosing the right mode. My cameras do not have that task, and I will not use it even if they do so.
Meditation tracking
Focus tracking is an additional feature that is usually found in constant autofocus. It uses all focus points to follow a moving subject in the frame. It is useful for subjects like Flying Birds, where it is difficult to place the subject in a place in the frame.
Manual focus and focus peaking
Manual focusing (MF) is useful in some circumstances, such as low light and macro photography. If you are working video, you also want to use manual focus, so you do not get the lens back and forth for the best focus. In addition, if you prefer special effects produced by vintage lens, you have no other option but to focus manually.
Old Dslrs had small and very poor views, making it difficult to see through them manually focusing. New cameras contain large, bright viewers that make the manual very easy.
Mirrorless cameras have two types of peaks available. The first exposes the edges of in-focus subjects with a color line. I use it for low-light landscape photography.
The other system increases a section of the view so that you can see better what is in the focus. I use live views uninterrupted for important focus, especially in macro or product photography.
Hyperfocal distance
Essential for landscape photography, the hyperfocal distance is the nearest distance, on which a lens can be focused when accepting objects on infinity. In other words, it maximizes the depth of the region.
Hyperfocal is a rough estimate of distance that you can get by focusing in a third way in the frame; However, this is not accurate.
Historically, people used charts to see the hyperfocal distance. These days, most people rely on apps such as photopils or photographer partners, which have hyperfocal distance calculators. The distance will change between various camera sensors, focal lengths and F-stops.
For 35 mm sensor (full-frame) cameras with 24 mm lens on f/8, the hyperfocal distance is about 2.43 meters, and everything from 1.21 m to infinite will be in mind.
However, micro four-third camera, such as the OM system camera or Panasonic Lumix G-Series, is a small sensor. Therefore, you will need a 12 mm lens to give almost the same area. Then, the hyperfocal distance on F/8 is at a distance of 1.21 m, and everything from 0.6 meters to infinite will be in mind.
Similarly, the same area on Nikon DX will be given by about 16 mm lens. At f/8, the hyperfocal distance will be 1.65 meters. Meanwhile, a pentax, canon, or fujifilm APS-C camera will have a 15 mm lens, and the hyperfocal distance is about 1.51 meters.
Those examples are adjacent, but will work for most of us. After all, most of us do not take a picture of the landscape with a tape measure.
Those apps can also be used to calculate the depth of the area under other conditions. For example, you may want to keep an entire bird in mind, but still the background is blurred, and will calculate what you need to do.
Back button focus
Many photographers use back-button focus (BBF). To use it, you have to disable AF with a shutter button and assign the rear button instead (usually AF-on or AE-L/AF-L). This distinguishes the focus from the shutter, and allows you to smoothly toes between autofocus and manual focus. This means that every time you press the shutter, there is no need to refocus. It is exceptionally useful in low light when autofocus can be problematic. In addition, with intermittent topics, one can quickly shift from C-AF to MF, which can speed up workflows. This is a method that I used while shooting weddings.
BBF allows you to focus once and resume the picture. However, it is best to escape when using a wide aperture, as a narrow aircraft of sharp focus can be shifted.
Is your autofocus wrong?
Some DSLR cameras and lens combinations need to be calculated as they focus slightly near or far. If your photos are a bit soft continuously, it may be a problem.
in conclusion
Between this and previous articles, you have a simple observation of how autofocus works. Your camera may have a host of other autofocus settings. For example, I can change the sensitivity to tracking, switch the camera to focus on the right or left eye, and it has a completely clear rear screen, which I find it invaluable to the macro work. This bracket will also focusing, in other words, will take images that focus at different distances, and then mix them in a shot. But not every camera will do those tasks.
Focusing is worth practicing to correct something. Combined with exposure control, which I will come in a future article, you will have tools for taking first class photos.
Try to use the back button focus and see if it works for you; It practice and is used to do. Also, consider putting photopil on your smartphone. This is a one-closed cost of $ 10.99 and has a host of other useful equipment that you will find useful.
