This article shares my experience photographing Etosha National Park, Namibia. This is a practical guide that focuses on the park itself and how to photograph wildlife in such locations, particularly in a self-guided manner.
I have divided this article into two parts. Part one deals with the parks, the best time to visit, and why Etosha is worth visiting. The second is about gear and photography tips.
What is Etosha?
Etosha is a national park in north-western Namibia and one of the largest national parks in Africa. It is approximately 22,300 square kilometers, which is huge in scale. For reference, the most extensive and major park in my home country Italy, Gran Paradiso National Park, is 710 square kilometers. Even compared to parks in the United States, Etosha would be one of the largest parks – Yellowstone, for example, is approximately 9,000 square kilometers in size.
Etosha National Park is home to hundreds of species of mammals, birds and reptiles, including several endangered and threatened species such as the black rhinoceros.
Its climate is savanna desert. In winter, the average minimum night temperature is around 10°C (50°F), while during summer, temperatures often hover around 40°C (104°F). Being a desert, there is a lot of difference between day and night. It almost never rains in winter.
Etosha has a very long history. It was declared a game reserve in 1907. In 1958, the Republic of South Africa, which administers Namibia, decided to preserve the area. It was given the status of national park in 1967. It was named after the large Etosha Pan – a salt lake almost entirely within the park, which remains mostly dry in the dry season. Indeed, with an area of 4,760 square km (1,840 sq mi), the Etosha Pan covers 23% of the total area of the national park.
Namibia as a whole is truly a magical place to visit, thanks to its people, landscapes and wildlife. A fun detail: with a little more than three people per square kilometer, it has the second lowest population density in the world, surpassed only by Mongolia. It’s surprising to me that Italy, by comparison, has a density of 196 inhabitants per square kilometer!
when to go and how long to stay
During winter (June to September because Namibia is in the Southern Hemisphere) is usually the best time to visit the park. During this time, the Lake Etosha Pan dries up and turns into a dry, endless white expanse. There may be dust in the park due to the white soil in the pan.
This is also the time of year when most tourists visit the park (apart from the months of May and October), as the climate is mild. Most commonly, due to the dry season, wildlife concentrates around reservoirs during these months, and the surrounding areas are filled with springbok and zebra.
Considering the aridity of the environment, the abundance of different animals in Etosha National Park is somewhat unexpected. The densely vegetated areas are home to elephants, endangered black rhinos and even leopards. Lions are hidden in the pale golden color of the grasslands, while giraffes tower above most of the dry vegetation. Although not by any means abundant, you may also spot a few cheetahs.
Due to the low levels of vegetation and animals congregating around water bodies, it is relatively easy to see abundant wildlife. But the park is huge, and there are many things worth seeing. Of course, you’ll also need time and hopefully good lighting to take photos! For those reasons, I recommend staying at least 4-5 full days. I want to stay there for months, but that’s a different topic 🙂
Another useful thing to share is that there were no medical treatments or vaccinations required for malaria or other diseases when I stayed there, and I didn’t see any mosquitoes. Please check the current situation and discuss it with your doctor when planning your travel.
where to stay
There is plenty of viable accommodation outside and inside the park. I recommend you stay inside the park, which is equipped with restaurants, shops, swimming pools and petrol stations in the camps. The three main camps (Okakuejo, Halali and Namutoni) offer a variety of accommodation, ranging from camping to bungalows overlooking flood water holes. The more distinctive Dolomite and Onkoshi camps are located deeper in the park.
I spent a long time in and around Okaukwejo and Halali and visited Namutoni twice. Although the lodge is attractive, I would not spend much time in Namutoni next time, as the area around it is not suitable for wildlife photography.
Generally speaking, the watering holes around the lodge are not ideal for taking good photos. It’s interesting to see them after dinner, or early in the morning before the gates open, but nothing beats quality time.
Meanwhile, the area starting west of Okaukwejo – and between Okaukwejo and Halali – was the most interesting, containing many water holes. Some of them are regularly visited by animals, such as a herd of elephants or a pride of lions.
using your car
As is often the case in Africa, the best way to get around is by car. A big bonus: you can drive your own vehicle in Etosha National Park. When I first heard about it I was excited and thrilled!
This is an essential component for wildlife photographers and adventurers like me, as it enables you to manage your time while taking photos or waiting for the activity you want to see. Or just relaxing and enjoying the views! You can prepare any day as per your choice.
In fact, this does not happen if you join jeep safari tours from camps. Although you can still join a photo tour and have a safari catered to photographers, but trust me, it’s not the same.
But this is also a big responsibility.
The good news is that the park’s roads are gravel and in excellent condition in winter. Still, four-wheel drive is recommended, even though the park says a sedan may suffice. (During the rainy season, conditions change dramatically, and not all roads are usable even with a jeep. But as mentioned earlier, I don’t recommend going in summer.)
When you are driving your vehicle in Etosha, you must understand and respect the park rules. This means staying on the authorized road, respecting speed limits, and avoiding any disturbance to animals crossing or approaching the road. Elephants and rhinos can become sensitive if you make noise or get too close to them. Along with all this, also pay attention to the park timetables and strictly respect them. The gates of the lodge open at dawn and close at dusk; No one can stay outside after the gate is closed.
If you are outside certain specific areas for any reason – such as the lodge perimeter or the toilet complex – you may not be able to exit your vehicle. This is a basic rule because predators can be anywhere, even behind the bush you thought you could use to hide. You could be two meters away from a leopard without noticing!
I hope you found this essay about Etosha National Park enjoyable. The second part will be about how to take award-winning photos there. If you have any questions or feedback, please don’t hesitate to leave them in the comments section below.
