These days, bending gender stereotypes in clothing is almost taken for granted. However, this was not at all the case in Switzerland in the 1930s – a fact that made Swiss writer, journalist and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach stand out from the crowd. “She was such a style icon of her time,” said Eudon Choi of the lanky-haired androgyne who served as the central figure of inspiration for their joint pre-fall and fall collections. “In Switzerland, she was a major pioneer of this boyish look, and even her own mother encouraged her.”
Take girlAs a point of departure, Choi developed an accessible wardrobe of clean, amply cut tailoring – striped jackets with side seams so they could be worn as capes, hulking moleskin coats with overblown storm flaps. Oxford shirting double collar with detachable. Although the fit and palette of some pieces look a little dirty, the more effeminate look is accentuated with a flapper-ish shift dress adorned with plaids and a suit in an all-over Archangel flower print.
Highlighting the more feminine components of Schwarzenbach’s fluid style is a look that pays homage to the intoxicating eclecticism of his approach to dressing. A halterneck gown in the aforementioned floral texture with a thigh-high slash, and an A-line day frock and a flare cut from a sheer, geometric patterned lace bring a red-blooded frisson to an otherwise relatively sober offering – a little more This would not have been wrong.
