Thursday, February 13, 2025
spot_imgspot_imgspot_imgspot_img
HomeLifestyleTravelThis Turkish region has 4,000 years of winemaking history – how to...

This Turkish region has 4,000 years of winemaking history – how to plan a trip



The Minoans made wine here in the 20th century BC,” said Ergin Ince, one of my hotel guides. Six Senses Kaplankaya, I had secured a visit to the ancient cities of Priene, Mellitus and Didyma. “But they mixed it with honey and water because it was sour.”

I had arrived at the resort after several days exploring Turkey’s Aegean coast, where I had seen several vase-shaped clay vessels used by the Minoans to carry wine on display in archaeological museums. I can attest that a lot of wine is still made in this region – more than half the country’s wine, in fact – and it is far better than it was 4,000 years ago.

I had planned to explore the area around the port city of Izmir, then visit nearby sites two hours south bodrumI’d heard that the drives around Izmir were long and not always pretty. Luckily, there were wineries along the way that provided great respite from car time. For a multiday trip to sites like Hierapolis and Ephesus, I booked stops at tasting rooms, where I could often enjoy the fantastic food as well as the fruit from the vines growing nearby.

Connected, How to Plan the Perfect Trip to Bodrum, Türkiye

From left: Nif Winery in Izmir, Türkiye; Frontinus Gate at Hierapolis.

From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Matthew Figg / Alamy


Table of Contents

day 1

my first stop was Isabey VineyardFrom 1925 to 2004, the state-owned company, Tekel, dominated Turkish wine production. Some of the wineries able to compete include Sevillon, founded in 1942 by Bulgarian immigrant Isa Gunner. Isabé, its Sauvignon Blanc estate, is located near the Aegean Sea, where the salty air helps the grapes develop a delicious acidity. The vineyard’s restaurant was closed on Monday, but I was content to sample some of the more than 30 wines, including an unscented red wine called Nativus. Full of black-cherry flavor and with coffee-like tannins, this Kalecik is made from Karasi grapes. Turkish wines are not typically exported to the US, so vineyards and wineries like Seville offer American travelers like me a unique opportunity to taste indigenous varieties.

An hour away from Isabe, I stopped for lunch at the top of a hill Niff WineryWhere outdoor tables offer views of the mountains, including Bozdag, a peak from Greek mythology. Enjoying chocolate, fig shiraz and entrecote, I felt like a modern Dionysus.

Next, I headed to Kula-Salihali, known for its “fairy chimneys” – bulbous towers of hard basalt that stand more than 400 feet high. Not far from them is the Burnt Country, a desolate landscape shaped by a (now dormant) volcano, flaring and pungent, where I hiked for two hours in the heat.

Tired of all the walking, I entered Villa Estate by Anemone, Where my room had a modern four-poster bed and a terrace overlooking a winery, Yanic MeteorI ended my day with roast salmon, a fresh watermelon salad and a glass of Gewurtztraminer on the winery’s restaurant patio. It may seem surprising that this cool-climate grape would thrive in this region, but the vineyard is nearly 2,800 feet above a volcanic slope, where cool nights help it slowly develop complex aromas.

Connected, Why is Istanbul one of the best places to visit in 2024?

From left: Harvest time at Niff Winery; The entrance to Hera Sarapevi.

From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Courtesy of Hera Sarapevi/Turkiye Tourism


day 2

The next morning, I drove two hours south to Hierapolis, a wellness site dating back to the 2nd century BC. The springs gushing over the travertine rock still attract bathing Turks, although the thermal spa where the conquering Romans once rested is now an archaeological site. An hour north of the ancient spa town, I glanced at a large Roman amphora please noteA winery is named after the ships that were once used to store and transport wine. Third-generation owner Hasan Altintas plans to build a winemaking museum there. He is also a person imbued with community spirit. One of their labels, Besi Bir Yerde, or “Five in One”, supports women’s education and efforts against domestic violence. The white blend is citrusy, minty and includes three native grapes – Sultaniye, Narins and Emir – blended with Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc.

During my brief stay in Denizli city, I had dinner at the restaurant Garson Shukrü (Entry fee $19-$33)Fried pastrami over hummus, heaps of fresh vegetables for various dips, and shredded veal tongue in a tangy lemon-caper sauce went well with the local Thea Sauvignon Blanc.

From left: Desserts and wines at the Isabé vineyard of Seville; A view of the city of Sirins.

From left: Courtesy of Celal Bayak/Sevillen/Türkiye Tourism; S Vincent / Alamy


third day

The next morning I headed back west towards the coast and reached Sirins in time for lunch. Turks flock to this hilltop town for wine tasting at the weekend, with its cobbled streets lined with trinkets and bottle shops. sitting on the small balcony of the wine bar hera sarapeviWith a view of minarets and old houses, I tasted charcuterie and cheese with a glass of unique Turkish wine. They included Castro Tirelli Allia, a rosé with layers of raspberry, salinity and smoke; Midin Baluto, from Carcas grapes grown on 150-year-old vines; and Mor Salkim Passito, a rare sweet wine made from sun-dried Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

Sirens is near Ephesus, an important metropolis in ancient Greece, Rome and Byzantium and, today, a tourist mecca full of antiquities. It was worth negotiating the crowds of cruise-ship day-trippers to be able to see the storied remains of the third largest library in the ancient world. Then I went to the winery and the hotel yedi bilgeler For dinner at Maydan Restaurant, which serves the most beautiful roasted eggplants in Türkiye.

The wines were equally impressive: Vindemia Daphne, made from native rich grapes; Vindemia goose, from Bornova misceti, an ancient variety of muscat that was probably brought to these shores by the Phoenicians; and a mixture of Thales Millettos, Bogazkere and pomegranate-like okuzgozu.

Connected: 12 Best Hotels in Istanbul in 2024

day 4

Starting a winery takes money, and some owners have deep pockets. Next morning, I stayed there Lucien Arcas VineyardsWhich was established in the early 2000s and named after its founder, a shipping giant. With 289 acres, it is Türkiye’s largest organic producer. Inside its huge tasting room stood a Mini Cooper and on its ceiling were ancient Roman statues. I lunched on, of all things, excellent weiner schnitzel, tasted a crisp, peachy Sauvignon Blanc-Trebbiano blend called Smyrna, followed by the sommelier’s favorite wine, the dark, weighty Mon Rêve Marcellan, native to the Arcas family. It was made from grapes of the region, in the south of France.

My favorite winery, which was ultimately my last stop, was located further north in Urla, just outside Izmir. USCA produces only 45,000 bottles per year, less than 3 percent of Lucien Arcas’ production. Most are sold in its tasting room. On the patio, groups of friends were having heated conversations over tables and wine, while dogs roamed the grass in front of the vines. Sipping lingering over a glass of Usca Sonnet 76, a structured Cabernet-Merlot blend with flavors of blackberry and dark chocolate, I felt like I could be in California. But this was Turkey, with its rich layers of history, and there were the Colosseum and the Temples of Apollo and Artemis to see in the coming week – and more wine to drink.

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2024 issue travel+vacation Under the title “Ancient taste.”





Source link

RELATED ARTICLES

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

- Advertisment -
Google search engine

Most Popular

Recent Comments

Enable Notifications OK No thanks