By the time you’ve just hit 25 years in the business Daisuke Obana (N.Hollywood), fashion is probably back where it belongs. Asked to share what he’s catching on his sophisticated radar, the designer wrote: “I am sensing a paradigm shift in trends in the Asian market…. It feels like the mindset is moving towards simpler, more practical items. In a way, it’s starting to feel more consistent with what we do.”
The practicality and functionality of the N.Hollywood TPES is apparent at first glance, but not everything Obana does is “simple” at all. His knowledge of military gear is amazing and each TPES season he dives deep into a specific aspect of combat/outwear gear. The focus for spring is on climbers; He and his team spent hours watching documentary footage of climbing expeditions, which helped determine the direction of the styling.
The casting provided a documentary aspect to the lookbook. Such body diversity is rare on the runway and in fashion imagery, and it was refreshing to see the clothes in action. The idea, Obana wrote, was to underline “the relationship between materiality and work, I think, as well as the element of being multinational”.
Adding interest to the familiar silhouettes was the palette, which included white and dusty plum in addition to olive drab and black. From label placement to the unexpected presence of pockets on a sleeveless top, there are many small things to keep in mind. The offering also includes five side ventures, which is not to be taken lightly; They allow TPES to offer products outside of their expertise that fit the theme and aesthetic of a given collection. In partnership with Wacoal Men, Obana and his team created “an unprecedented (undergarment) design that is shapeless, reversible (back and forth) and seamless.” The military-inspired towels are made from special bamboo-infused yarn from Japanese company Hippopotamus; A watch strap was developed with Tokyo-based vintage military watch experts Curious Curio. Obana said, with the American company Deneran, he created “a low-cut version of the military-approved ‘tachyon’ series;” and continued an ongoing partnership with British military patron, ArcAir. Apparently it takes a village to climb a mountain.
