Who would have thought that David Koma, the director of West End glitz, would turn his attention to the everyday pedestrians passing by the windows of his East London studio? Well, he has a good thing: The designer’s second menswear collection delivered some serious hits, chief among them oversized trench coats and cropped leather bombers with chest-puffing lapels of auburn fuzz — photographed here with baggy melange sweatpants and loafers. Went, as if casually dressed, to collect a parcel. “It’s very easy for me to escalate the drama,” Koma said. “But when you’re designing for men everything has to be more subtle, and so the challenge is to bring a feeling of high-end luxury to the street.”
The stadium scarf, traditionally a symbol of fans, was re-imagined as a dazzling grid of chainmail, and draped over slim-cut blazers with stand collars. (These would perform well on the red-carpet circuit, where standard-fare tuxedos are on the decline.) It was a meeting with Georgian rugby captain Merab Sharikadze that first gave birth to the idea, as well as the muscle-flashing lumps that adorn the jerseys. Was divided into. Cashmere, and pre-school cardigans dotted with branded organza patches. “I think I’m going to join the Georgian team in a campaign soon,” Koma said. “It’s like my first ‘hello’ to them.” Meanwhile, the designer’s enthusiasm for motorsports was reflected in checkerboard-knit polos, distressed leather jackets with armored pads and T-shirts bearing the image of a hot rod in motion.
Much of this collection – nice shirts, nice suits – will appeal to the fashion-conscious man, but even more so will inspire him to go beyond his comfort zone. Koma said, “If you don’t have imagination, you can’t get anywhere fresh.” “But it’s over once you go too far. I’m finding that balance. In this case: crystal-piped trousers, velvet-flock denim, fringed neckties, and zip-off waistbands to stay on the safe side of sass. The question is whether Koma’s menswear customers will prove as convinced as its women. “I haven’t thought about it,” he said. “But the coma girl is surrounded by stylish men, and I’m sure they’ll be the first ones to catch her. Let’s see who picks up the call, shall we?”