The Brunello Cucinelli booth at Pitti Uomo seems to expand with each passing season. It’s now about the size of a helipad, and why not, with a 12% increase in revenues by 2024 bucking the luxury market’s slowdown? Although the space was large, there was no shortage of subtle deviations from his usual fifty-shade neutrals: a fitted corduroy blazer in a rich burgundy hue. “But it’s a dusty burgundy,” he clarified. “Note that it is not bright, i am racomando,
The color was the new addition to an otherwise well-balanced Cucinelli collection, where the changes are imperceptible and discreet yet so deftly executed that the look feels unexpectedly fresh. Shades of amaranth, rouge and radicchio, as well as subtle variations of tonal blues and whites (detectable only to the trained eye of a Cucinelli connoisseur) added a discreet visual punch. spezzato-Cucinelli took an artfully mismatched styling approach this season, which roughly translated means “broken.” “Wearing Spezzato allows you to create your own style by mixing old and new pieces,” he explains. “You can repurpose an old pair of trousers or a blazer, pair it with something new, and get creative while avoiding waste.”
The collection offered a wide range of attractive Spezzato options, signaling a shift away from the focus on coordinated suits and combining it with dynamism and a youthful vibe, enhanced by a more vibrant color palette. Coats were largely replaced by sporty jackets of smooth leather or sleeveless piamino waistcoats, which were usually worn over blazers. The silhouettes remained casual, with an air of well-curated casualness; The trousers were a little softer, and the rustic, chunky intarsia knitwear added an extra layer of visual appeal.
Balance is a word that comes up often in Cucinelli’s conversations; They have built their thriving business on an ethos of sustainable long-term growth, an ethos they call beautiful or gentle. His company has been largely untouched by the luxury recession affecting more powerful players; He is optimistic and positive about the future of this category. “I believe this is not a moment of difficulty but of rebalancing,” he said. “The skyrocketing prices of fashion are driving away even the wealthiest customers, and unlimited growth is not sustainable. Luxury customers never tire of looking good or buying fashion. They are tired of not paying a fair price. We have to go back to healthy growth and healthy quality. To revive luxury spending we need balance, intelligence and the human component. For Cucinelli, paying attention to the state of the soul is as important as (or more important than) paying attention to the quality of a cashmere jumper.
